CENTRAL KARNATAKA-HAMPI & HOSPET
 
Telephone Area Code: 08394

Hampi was once the seat of the great Vijayanagara Empire and centre of Hindu rule for over 200 years from its foundation in 1336. It is one of the most mesmerizing historical sites in South India . Set in a strangely beautiful boulder strewn landscape, the ruins of this ancient city have a magnetism of their own and are awe-inspiring.


As the capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, one of the largest Hindu empires in Indian history, it was once an enormously wealthy and thriving city having held a monopoly of trade in spices and cotton. The Vijayanagar Empire reached its height during the glorious reign of Krishnadevaraya who ascended the throne in 1509 and ruled for 20 years till his untimely death in 1529 at the age of 42.

At a time when the Mughal armies in the north were conquering and plundering ruthlessly, the new empire in the south, an amalgamation of the small Hindu kingdoms managed to hold invaders at bay with their unity till a Muslim coalition finally managed to rout them at the Battle of Talikota in 1565 and destroy the city. Today only the desolate remains of the once magnificent Hindu empire lay strewn on the right bank of the River Tungabhadra

Hampi is today a thriving traveler’s destination, and most people stay at least a couple of days to, soak in the atmosphere and explore the area. Warning: Beware of muggings especially at night.


PLACES OF INTEREST
 
Archaeological Museum : The museum at Kamalapqram maintained by the Archaeological survey of India is well worth a visit. There

are fine sculptures and various artifacts that have been excavated displayed here apart from a fascinating floor model of the original layout of Vijayanagar. The model gives an overall view of the magnitude of the site, which would otherwise be difficult to obtain if you are moving around the ruins themselves. The Archaeological Survey booklets are on sale here and the museum is open on all days except Fridays from 10am to 5pm .

Sacred Centre: As you enter the ruins from Hampi Bazaar in the west over the Hemakuta Hill is the Sacred Centre of Vijayanagara on the northern edge of the city encompassing the Virupaksha Temple and the Tungabhadra River . It was here, according to Hindu legend that the revered sage Madhavacharya lived in a shrine on the slopes of the Hemakuta Hill and played a major role in advising the formation of a new city
Virupaksha Temple : Legends claim that the first building erected was the temple of Pampapati , which is the modem Virupaksha Temple . However, archaeologists agree that it was probably constructed on the foundation of an earlier temple. The main gopuram, almost 50m high, is believed to have been built in 1442 with a second smaller one being added in 1510 during the coronation festival of Krishnadevaraya.

The main shrine is dedicated to Virupaksha, an incarnation of Lord Siva. To the north is a smaller shrine dedicated to Pampadevi, the protector of the city and an incarnation of Goddess Parvati. Entry to the temple is free every day from 6.30am to 8am and again from 6.3Opm to 8pm
 

Hemakuta Hill : The slopes of the Hemakuta Hill overlooking the Virupaksha temple some of the earliest structures, some of them built even before the Vijaynagara times. There is a 4.5m-high statue of Lord Ganesh carved from a single block of stone. To the south is an immense monolithic sculpture of the man-lion Lord Narasimha built during the reign of Krishnadevaraya. The remains of Krishna Temple also built during this time and located between these two statues, is unfortunately in state of decay. The view from the top of the hill is well worth the climb.
 

Around Hampi Bazaar : En route to Hampi Bazaar from Virupaksha Temple you can see where the huge temple chariot is stored between festivals. At the eastern end of the road is a pavilion containing a huge monolith of Nandi, Lord Siva's bull - vehicle. The Kodandarama Temple is nearby and immediately beyond, you find the ruined lines of Sule Bazaar. At the foot of the Matunga Hill is the Achyutaraya Temple .
 
Around Hampi Bazaar : En route to Hampi Bazaar from Virupaksha Temple you can see where the huge temple chariot is stored between festivals. At the eastern end of the road is a pavilion containing a huge monolith of Nandi, Lord Siva's bull - vehicle. The Kodandarama Temple is nearby and immediately beyond, you find the ruined lines of Sule Bazaar. At the foot of the Matunga Hill is the Achyutaraya Temple .
 

Vittala Temple : The highlight of the ruins is this 16th century temple, which is one of India 's three World Heritage Monuments. The temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu is in an excellent state of preservation although cement blocks columns having been erected to keep the main structure from falling down. Believed to have been built during the reign of Krishnadevaraya [1509 - 1529] the temple was never completed or consecrated. Yet its magnificent sculptural work is the high point of Vijaynagar art. Entry to the temple is free on Fridays.
 

King’s Balance : To the southwest of the temple stands a simple stone archway and lintel where the king's weight in gold and jewelers was measured annually and donated to the priests. Short distances away on the riverbank are the remains of massive bridge, which was built on hundreds of pillars of granite.
 

Royal Centre : This area contains numerous temples and civic buildings including palaces, pavilions and stables which archaeologists believe were the property of the Vijaynagar royalty.
 

St.Mary’s Cathedral : Built by French missionary in 1882 AD it is a grand Basilica with an impressive tower arid typically gothic pointed arches.

Queen’s Bath : The Queen's Bath is a square shaped building that seems to have been designed for royal recreation. Inside, a columned passageway runs around a large central bathing tank. The ceilings of the passageway are divided into domes with delicate plasterwork designs. The channel from the aqua duct by which the bath was filled with scented water and the drainage outlet for changing of the water can still be seen.

Royal Enclosure Area : This large walled area in the heart of the ancient city contains a number of interesting structures that seemed to have played an important role in the civic life of the city. The Mahanavarni Platform, a multilevel raised platform with relief carvings on its sides believed to have been used by the royalty as a balcony to view the celebration of religious festivities.

Near the platform is a deep stepped tank known as Pushkarni with perfectly symmetrical steps leading down to it from all sides. The mathematical precision of the stone masonry is remarkable as are the water engineering skills as is evident from the excavated system of aqua ducts, tanks, sluices and canals.
Another large platform in the northwest corner of the enclosure with stone 'footings' for around 100 pillars is believed to have been a Hundred Columned Audience Hall where kings sat in judgment and received deputations.
 

Hazara Ramchandra Temple : This temple sits within its own courtyard and was apparently built exclusively for the royal household. The walls of the courtyard are made of massive blocks of stone cut and interlocked with incredible accuracy. On the outside these walls are covered with numerous interesting relief carvings of warriors, horsemen and dancers. There are four mammoth black stone pillars supporting the ceiling of the second hall within the temple.
 

Zenana Enclosure : The 2-storeyed Lotus Mahal is within the Zenana or ladies' quarters, which is screened off by high walls. This open sided pavilion seems to have been the reception area. There is an impressive domed Elephant Stables but the watchtower is in ruins. The enclosure is thought to have contained a number of buildings used exclusively by the royal women.
 

Underground Virupaksha Temple : Located about half a kilometer away from the Ramachandra Temple are the remains of the underground Virupaksha Temple . Although much of the area is flooded, it is still possible to explore a certain portion of the structure.
 
East Kamalapuram : About a kilometer from the museum at Kamalapuram is one of the largest temples amongst the ruins, the Pattabhirama Temple . The temple facing east has an impressively pillared mandapam. 4kms away is the Malyavanta Raghunatha Temple the sanctuary of which is built around a massive rock that protrudes from the ceiling.
 
Anegondi : Anegondi is the ancient fortified stronghold across the banks of the River Tungabadra, which was the first major settlement in the area from which Vijaynagar was born. A bridge accesses Anegondi across the river. Corrades, round basket-shaped rowboats also ferry people across the river
as they have been doing for centuries. To the west of Anegondi is the tiny Durga Temple . Further up is the Laxmi Temple with the Hanuman Temple perched right on top of the rocky hill that offers an enchanting view of the ruins.
 

Tungabhadra Dam : About 5kms west of Hospet is the 2km long Tungabhadra dam that offers panoramic views. Work on it began in 1945 and it was completed eight years later in 1953. Its construction affected 90 villages and displaced over 50,000 people although today it is one of India ’s largest masonry dams irrigating countless farms and providing water to numerous townships. Below the dam are gardens with 'musical fountains'.

 
HOW TO REACH

Hospet a neighboring typical country town of Karnataka situated 13krns from Hampi Bazaar is used by many people who come to see the Vijay agar ruins at Hampi as their base. Formerly known as Nagalpura, Hospet was a satellite town built during the reign of Krishnadevaraya. Hospet is the nearest railway station, which is only a 20-minute walk from the town centre. There is one daily train to Bangalore at 8.30pm and a couple of express trains to Gunttakal where you get express trains to Bangalore and Hubli. The bus stand at Hospet is well organized with frequent buses to Bangalore , Hubli, Bijapur, Hyderabad , Hassan, Mangalore, Shimoga etc. The nearest airport is in Bangalore .

Taxis and Autos are available in plenty to get from one point to another. Cycles that offer the cheapest and the most ideal means of getting around are also available for rent at Hampi Bazaar. However, walking is the only way to explore all the nooks and crannies of the site. There are also organized tours from Hospet as detailed later in this chapter.


HOTELS IN BANGALORE
 
STAR CATEGORY
NAME OF HOTEL
3 Star
   Hotel Malligi
Others
   Hotel Priyadarshini,Hotel Sandarshana,Hotel Shalini,Hotel Vishwa,Raju Guest House,Shanti Guest House


CHITRADURGA
 

Telephone Area Code: 08194

This pleasant little town in the middle of Karnataka is situated almost exactly midway between Hospet and Bangalore . With the fall of the Vijaynagar Empire, the local chieftains known as Chittradurga Nayaks took refuge in the fort. Hyder Ali and his son Tipu sultan wrested the fort in 1779 and strengthened and expanded it to its current form. Following Tipu's defeat by the British, the fort lost its usefulness.
The tiny town, which developed within its shadow, slowly grew to include a bus and train station including a few hotels. The fort has plenty of shady rest spots and there is endless exploring to be done. The Banashankari Temple and the Grinding Stones that were one used to manufacture gunpowder are the main sites of interest. The train service here is limited as it is only a branch line. But as it is on the National Highway , Chitradurgha is well connected by bus to Bangalore , Hospet and Hubli.


GADAG

Telephone Area Code: 08372

On the main highway between Hospet and Hubli is the market town of Gadag. The town is well known for the stunning temple ruins dating back to [c.973-c.1189] at Lakkundi, located 12kms east. There is a fascinating stepped tank here with an arched structure that used to separate the bathing areas for men and women. The two main temple ruins here are those of the Kashi Vishveshwara Temple and the Nanneshwara Temple . There is museum here that is open on all days from 9am to 5pm .

Gadag is a junction between the main rail lines west to east and hence is well connected by train services to all major stations including Bijapur, Bangalore , Hubli, Hospet and Guntakal. Gadag is also well serviced by bus. Buses between Hubli and Hospet pass through Lakkundi and so it can even be

visited without actually getting off at Gadag. There are few places to stay in Gadag although the choice of hotels is limited.

HUBLI
 

Telephone Area Code: 0836

Hubli's importance to the traveler is limited to it being a major rail junction from Mumbai to Bangalore , Goa and northern Karnataka. All the main services are conveniently close to the train station and the train reservation office is open every day from 8am to 8pm .

Hubli is a centre for the textile industry and has a prominent Medical College . The twin city of Dharwad has the State University with a museum. Well served by train and bus, Hubli offers a wide range of accommodations to suit all budgets. The airport here is closed.


HOW TO PLAN YOUR TOURS
 
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